FAQ
General / Basics
Q: What does this FAQ cover?
A:This FAQ covers installation tips, fitment instructions, common problems and fixes, and platform-specific notes for 9mm blowback and AR-15 setups. Please give it a full read before contacting support.
Q: What tools are helpful for fitting & testing?
A: 1/8" drill bit for rotation test, brass punch for takedown pin, quality gun oil, bearing grease.
We recommend all modifications to your firearm to be done by a Gunsmith, however, If you are DIY comfortable, thin files or Dremel for careful shelf trimming/trigger fitting, and micrometer or calipers when trimming bolt weights.
Huge shoutout to Blowback9 for putting together this information.
Q: I just got my kit, how do I install it?
A: It's easy! Follow our YouTube video step by step.
FAQ #1
Q: Do I need a full-auto profile bolt or BCG?
A: Yes — a full-auto profile BCG (5.56) or full-auto bolt (9mm) is required.
FAQ #2
Q: What lower receiver is required?
A: A low shelf or no shelf behind the safety is required. A high shelf can prevent the lever from rotating.
Continued
Q: How can I test if my lower has enough clearance?
A:Test by ensuring the lever can rotate back far enough to rest on a 1/8" drill bit placed across the open lower. If it doesn’t, trim the shelf. (see section x)
Continued
Q: The lever won't rest on the drill bit - can I still make my lower Super Safe?
A: Yes, you can; however, you must use a Dremel to remove the material behind the lever.
Q: Lever forces itself to semi after one round.
A: Trim the area of the lower shelf that contact the cam/lever behind the cam. A centering device can also prevent cam forcing.
(Disregard top portion of the photo, see FAQ #4 for more details on it)
FAQ #3
Q: My lever is wiggling around, is my cam broken/out of spec?
A: No, The lever is designed to wobble forward/back about 6–12 degrees in the cam slot without moving the cam. Some play is necessary by design. To mitigate this some, you can use a centering device.
Continued
Q: Do I need a centering device?
A: A centering device or earbud is good practice to keep the lever centered and from rattling. It can prevent problems but may not be strictly necessary with a properly-fit lower. An earbud tip works well
Continued
Q: How do I center the lever in my M-16 style lower?
A: Centering is strongly recommended if the lower has an “M-16 cut”. Place thin nylon washers on the sides of the cam as it inserts through the receiver. If a shelf contacts the cam, washers won’t help. These can be purchased from Lowe’s: Hillman Nylon 3/8 x 0.194 x 1/32 (2/pack, very thin, 4 per side as required) or Hillman Metric M10 x 18 (8/pack, 2 per side as required).
FAQ #4
Q: Bolt locks up with the cam in the rear position. (Most common fitment issue)
A: Your lever is getting pinched between the BCG and the upper shelf. Use dremel or file to trim back the upper’s shelf in front of the rear takedown pin lug. We recommend having this work done by a gunsmith.
(Disregard bottom portion of the photo, see FAQ #2 for more details on it)
FAQ #5
Q: Why did my lever snap off?
A: Most often the same root cause as “locks up with cam rear”—interfering shelf or binding. The second most common cause is failure to remove or modify the bolt weight in an AR9 BCG. It can also be caused by getting caught under an open back hammer like the one found in the geissele ssa, this is rare.
FAQ #6
Q: Firing in active reset in traditional semi position.
A: Check the disconnector spring — it is upside down or weak.
FAQ #7
Q: Semi-auto won't operate; trigger won’t pull.
A: Due to tolerance stack, the trigger bar is contacting the cam (see white circle) Shave the inside of the left trigger bar arm (orange area) to thin it slightly.
AR-15 Specific FAQ
Q: Active reset will work for a couple rounds and the hammer and trigger will go dead. When I extract the round there is a light primer strike, how can I fix this?
A: H3 weight deadblow buffer + standard carbine spring is commonly recommended to solve bolt bounce and light-strike symptoms.
Q: Best buffer and spring weight?
A: H3 weight deadblow buffer + standard carbine spring the best starting point for AR-15 setups to control bolt bounce regardless of length or gas system
Q: Short-stroking (fires/ejects/bolt closes on empty chamber) — fix?
A: Typically buffer or spring is too heavy. Go back to H3 deadblow buffer + standard carbine spring as a starting point.
Blowback AR-9 Specific FAQ
YOU MUST REMOVE OR MODIFY BOLT WEIGHT BEFORE TESTING OR FIRING. Failure to do so will destroy the super safety lever. To remove the weight, use a punch to remove the roll pin holding it in place. Slide it out the rear. See photos bellow for more information on modification.
Q: I'm getting Jams and/or OOBD. How do I fix this?
A: You have to increase the weight of the bolt and and buffer. 24-27+ oz total bolt+buffer weight slows the bolt down enough to solve these issues. Most setups will already be roughly 22oz, however if you remove the weight you will need a heavier buffer to compenaste. We recommend using an A5 length buffer tube (7.75"), standard carbine spring, deadblow 11oz. buffer, plus a Kynshot Spacer Weight in the tube between the buffer and bolt to have a total buffer mass of 13.5oz..
Note: AVOID H2 or H3 buffers - Those should be used for AR-15 or CMMG 9mm RDB ONLY! They are too short for 9mm AR, can snap the bolt catch and cause OOBD.
In order to continue running your bolt weight without destroying you super safety lever you must remove material blocking it's path. This can be done by removing the weight and using a bench sander or angle grinder to remove 3.5mm of material.
Your finished product will look like this, it's ready to reinstall and get super safe.